- Aftercooler Parts and Accessories
- Belt Tensioner System
- Blower Pulleys
- Fuel System
- Heat Exchangers
- Manifolds and Parts
- Replacement Parts
- Supercharger Inlets
- Supercharger Kits
- Water Pumps
April 18, 2018 at 10:13 pm #2659BamBaLamParticipant
Boost on an 8th gen write-up
This is a basic write-up and isn’t meant to catch everything.
1) What mod should I get first?
– Flashpro. I shouldn’t have to say anymore than that. This is only applying to 8th gen civics of course, but if Ktuner comes out with better software for our cars in the future, then I’ll recommend them. Until then, Hondata Flashpro is your best bet. It allows for tuning, launch rpm control, rev limiter, and just all around performance enhancements for the car. Plus, it is necessary for even your simple bolt-ons. Getting a tuning software to adjust fuel maps, ignition tables, cam angles, etc. will show the most gains for your car than anything else. I recommend going to a reputable tuner to do these adjustments though, as an inexperienced hand can cause detrimental damage to a motor. Check your local area for tuning shops near you and do your research. I’ll be saying that last phrase a lot throughout this.
2) Alright, I have flashpro. What kind of Forced Induction/Boost should I go with? Turbo or Supercharger? Centrifugal, Roots, or Turbo?
– First, lets clarify something. A supercharger is a belt driven unit that provides a means to push positive pressure air into the motor. So a supercharger includes centrifugal and roots/screw style units. A naturally aspirated motor can only suck in as much air as its displacement. Ie: 2.0L, 1.8L, 1.6L, etc.
– Alright, now that we have that out of the way. What do you want out of the car? Are you trying to break hearts? Do you want a reliable daily? Well, guess what? K20s love boost! To an extent of course. A turbocharger, when sized correctly, can provide you with a nice mid-range and great top end power. A roots style supercharger will provide you with amazing low end torque, and almost v8 like drive-ability. A centrifugal acts like a turbo, just easier to install! (no tapping your oil pan for those oil lines!)
– Well, you didn’t answer the question, which one should I get? Get whatever one you want. As of right now, there’s 4 major brands of Forced Induction for the 8th gen. PRL Turbo kit, CT-E supercharger kits, Kraftwerks supercharger kits, and MercRacing TVS kits. (I’m not forgetting about IMT, their kits are an upgrade to a current CT kit.) All of these kits have great products with proven results.
– Do your research!!! That will answer your questions on which one seems best for you. Either way, a stock motor’s limits seem to be right around 450-550whp (450 pump gas/550 race fuel or e85). Two kits will not get you there. 1 being the c30-94 top mount Kraftwerks kit and two being the CT-E roots supercharger kit. You’ll net upwards of 350-420 with either, and thats about it. With the CT kit, you’ll seem to have to buy more additional parts to get to that range, because of the manifold design. I’ll get into that later.
3) Alright. I’ve decided on (X) kit. Explain them to me.
3A) PRL turbo kit – you can look it up online or watch some youtube videos of guys making great power with these kits. They’re very well designed and have shown great potential, even in the upper 600 range. It’s a turbo kit, and at bare minimum, will come with turbo piping, flanges, adapters, plumbing for the turbo, and exhaust manifold for the turbo. You have to pick your turbo, injectors if need be, flashpro if you haven’t gotten that yet (shame on you.), etc. On their website, you can literally pick every part you’ll need in order to make it a full bolt on and go kit. Only one issue. Fueling. We’ll get into that later.
3B) CT-E Kit – You went with the MP62 Roots supercharger, with manifold and accessories. Now on some websites, this kit does come with your very bare minimum to bolt on and go. You will eventually need a new fuel pump, injectors, pulleys, and an aftercooler kit for this to make it into the mid 300s. Highest power from this kit that I’ve seen is 380ish whp. If you’re looking for around 400 crank, and wanna spank some 5.0s and SS’s, this kit will get you there. Unfortunately, with this blower, you’ll have maxed out your supercharger at that power level and you won’t be able to progress. I’M NOT SWAYING YOU FROM GETTING THIS PRODUCT. ~400whp is a huge difference, and the car will be a very quick, fun, daily. With an upgraded clutch and the proper fueling requirements, you’ll never have to worry about your motor blowing as long as the tune is good and you keep up with your maintenance like you should. In my opinion, this kit is the safest and most fun. But, if you’re power hungry, option 1 or option 4 might be your best bet.
3C) Kraftwerks (C30-94) kit – Straight up bolt on and go. They have several DIY guides on how to install and I believe it comes with instructions as well. With pump gas and stock exhaust, you can expect in the low 300 range with a proper tune. Add a header and 3″ exhaust, and people have seen close to 360-370. Pulley down and add e85, and you’ll likely hit 410-430 from what I’ve seen so far. Only issues that I’ve seen out of these kits are the tensioners failing, bearings in the rotrex unit going bad, and belt slip issues. Most of these have been resolved, but just keep an eye out for people posting about issues with these. Reliable kits, but require a bit extra maintenance in my opinion. Others may say different, but some will agree.
3D) MercRacing TVS kits (The most involved kit) – Now, I’d honestly need to do a write-up by itself for these kits. Theres 4 different sizes you can go with. a TVS900, TVS1320, TVS1900, and TVS2300. The 900 is similar to the MP62 and will have a similar, if not a bit higher max horsepower. You’ll see better midrange torque from these newer superchargers, and they’ll still make for a fun daily. The TVS1320 kit will be a step up from the 900. Max I’ve heard of was 436 on a small pulley setup and e85, but I believe there’s more potential out of these units. We shall see soon enough, as someone is putting them to the test I’m sure. Next up is the TVS1900, which will reliably hit 430-450 hp with the base pulley combination with a proper intake and high flow exhaust. Increasing boost/psi, or pulleying down, isn’t recommended without upgrading some internal components and ethanol fuel to decrease knock. NOW we get to the TVS2300. This is a beast of a unit. A lot of upgraded parts are required for this one. Built transmission, forged rods/pistons, valvesprings.. You get the picture. This supercharger is not for the faint of heart when it comes to forced induction. It will break shit. I warn you now, if you go with this kit and you’re reading this for advice, please start small. lol.
4) Alright we covered the basics. What do I NEED to boost my car?
– Well. First off, you need to make sure you have an upgraded clutch. Your stock clutch will melt from power over 250 wtq. Some may have made their stock clutch last longer within that power range, but most will destroy them. So, What clutch should I get? If you’re under 300 wtq, I recommend the Exedy Stage 1. Seriously. I will attach pictures below of what mine looked like with HEAVY abuse. It outlasted my motor and my transmission at 450+whp/300+wtq. 30k+ miles. Anything over and you need to start upgrading components inside your motor anyway, so you should be talking to your tuner/doing your own RESEARCH.
– Fuel. Fuel fuel fuel. Seriously, fuel. A walbro 255 for under 400 whp, a walbro 450 for flex fuel up to 600ish, and you want to start looking at Radium surge setups for over 600 whp. Again, anything over 600, you’ll need to research what would best suit your needs. Injectors is whatever your tuner recommends. With a walbro 450, chances are you’ll run out of injector duty cycle before you run out of pump LPH.
– Spark. With boost you’ll need some simple things. Like spark plugs! Your OE spec plugs will not like forced induction, because with compressed air, comes heat as well. This heat will destroy your stock plugs. I recommend with anything under 12 psi going 1 step colder, and anything over going 2 steps colder. 1 step = NGK 2668s, 2 step = NGK 2669s. DO NOT RUN ANYTHING ELSE. NO DUAL TIP NONSENSE. NO AUTOZONE AUTOBRITE SPECIALS. DON’T BE THAT GUY.
– Air – No, I’m not talking about your kit. I’m talking about your ECU and how it comprehends that it’s now boosted. Hondata and Omni both make 4bar map sensors (theyre actually the same…). Those are the only two i recommend. You’ll need a 4bar for reading anything over 10psi. I’d still recommend it for lower, especially on turbo set-ups because of potential boost creep, and on supercharger setups because there are situations where you can have too much boost (vtec not engaging, stuck valves, etc…).
– Should I run a fuel return? Absolutely! Especially if you plan on making more power down the line. It lowers Injector duty cycles (IDCs) and takes the load off of your injectors. Also, it’ll help your fuel to run cooler. Now there’s two methods of running a fuel return. There is the no nonsense fuel return setup which was written up and made by VitViper (VitTuned) (I can spell his name and I’m typing this in note, lol.) And there is also a full fuel return setup. This consists of running your own fuel feel, going to the fuel rail (aftermarket rail required, sorry guys.), and then through a return line into a fuel pressure regulator, then back to your fuel sending unit/gas tank. You’ll need to research parts/look up schematics on 8thcivic of similar setups in order to get a better picture of what you need to do this.
5) Okay, I’ve decided on what kit I want, I’ve got flashpro, a new clutch, fuel, spark plugs, and my MAP sensor. What’s next?
5A) under 450whp – Now install it all! There’s several people in the 8th community that will share their experiences with you, and that will be willing to help you with questions you may have along the way. Remember with boosting a naturally aspirated motor, there are things that will have to be fabricated in order to make it work. A turbo kit will have to drill and tap your oil pan in order for the oil lines for the turbo. With the CT kits, you’ll need to wire in an IAT sensor and disable your MAF sensor (which will be done once you start tuning, because fuck maf tunes). Majority of these kits with lower fueling requirements will still need you to crush your Fuel pressure regulator, located inside your fuel sending unit, or install a blank with a fuel return setup. Also some things you need to consider are things may need to be shaved or cut in order to fit the additional piping. You may want to consider investing into a battery relocation kit to allow for more room in the engine bay. Those are some of the little things you might need to do.
5B) over 450whp – Do your research. This next part applies to you guys.
6) Everything over 450 whp on a boosted 8th gen. Making that power to the wheels.
– You need to consider that you’re now in the range of making over double the power that the motor makes to the crank, and now its going straight to the wheels. At this power level, the oem parts on our cars start showing signs of failure. For one, valvetrain. Higher boost levels will start pressing back up on your valves and your valve springs won’t be able to keep them shut or open in time. This is the main way you drop a valve or break a timing chain. Next thing to consider is at these levels of wheel torque, that amount of torque is now being exerted on your connecting rods. These are not forged, unfortunately. Consider getting forged components for your setup. Forged rods/pistons. New bearings throughout. You don’t really need to worry about your cylinder walls until the upper 600s, and again at that power level, you’ll need to do your research. Next we have the oh so faithful k series transmission. I personally just spent a pretty big chunk of change going PPG, but there are other options. Gear-X, MFactory, and Albins. DO NOT GET OBX. That is the ebay brand of our transmissions. VERY FEW individuals will rep them, but rarely anyone runs them for their lack of reputation and reliability. And finally. Tires. You’ll need to get your power to the ground to effectively use it, right? The stickier they are, the faster they burn. Factor that into your price of this, because that’s an expense you won’t expect. So, at around 300wtq you should start considering transmission bits and valvetrain. After 350wtq you should begin to look at piston/rod combinations. Higher compression will net you more power, but will require a better grade of fuel. Sticking to 11.1:1 compression and running higher psi levels will create more knock, and we all know what an engine knock is yes? Well, under load with higher power, that could create engine block windows, and no one wants that.
7) How much does it cost to boost my car?
– So, here’s the thing. You can find all the parts you need, deal shop, ebay brand it, and end up with a cheap total cost. Some people say they were able to boost their 8th gen for less than 3k. I personally was not one of those people, but if you can manage it, go for it! Just remember that there are things that you won’t expect. There will be additional purchases that you won’t consider. New fluids rack up pretty quickly, hoses, lines, battery relocate, piping, sensors, tuning, etc. Not everyone knows a guy that knows a guy, just remember that.
– I’ve always heard, but not always followed, save up double of what you expect to spend. Give yourself some leeway in the price.
Well, this is my write-up on what you should know about boosting an 8th gen. Keywords: Boost, Turbo, Forced Induction, F/I, How much power, What should I make, What turbo, Supercharger or Turbo, What clutch, What spark plugs.. To name a few.
Some useful links:
No-nonsense fuel return:
Available options (probably out of date..):
Returnless fuel setup limit:
Before going Boost article (well written, better than me.):
- The forum ‘Welcome to the Forum’ is closed to new topics and replies.